Another top ten experience in Europe. My achilles heel was hurting big time. I did a lot of riding with my left leg as my right was up on my rear rack. Yes. The two towns I scouted out showed no signs of hotels or campsites, except on my map and LP book. Suddenly as I'm scouting out where to poach in the woods I spotted this place. The sign was so faded, I doubted they were still in business. I went in the front door but couldn't find anyone. I walked around the building twice looking in the windows, I was injured and determined. Finally I saw an old couple. I didn't want to scare them, but I wanted their attention. Finally the woman saw me, so I went back in the front door. I called out and about a minute later she appeared.

Total language barrier. Much of the younger generation in the Baltic countries have learned English, but not the older rural Estonians. I tried some Russian. It seemed to work. I tried to tell her I wanted a room for two nights, she thought I wanted two rooms. Soon I had a room downstairs for my bike, and a room upstairs with two beds and a balcony, for about $4 a night. I also have my own fridge downstairs. I think I'm the only guesst staying at the place. About an hour later the woman knocks on my door and motions me to her room where she puts me on the phone with her daughter, who is in Tallin and speaks pretty good English. She asks "did you really want two rooms?" Soon it's straightened up that I want one room for two nights.

I chilled the next day, rode 40km to town and back for groceries, and sat on the beach overhauling my rig, blah, blah, blah. The next morning my front tire was flat and my pump was missing . . . It's 5 am, I'm trying to get an early start. I searched everywhere, what to do? Soon the old woman comes out to say goodbye. Oh boy, language barrier, but I NEED my pump. After about 15 minutes of sign language and charades of me pumping my tire, she wakes her husband who had found my pump in the trash can. I'm in tears. I was facing a 131 km walk to Tallin. The woman handed me a pad of paper and a pen. I don't know what she wanted me to write, but I let loose. They both gave me a big hug and waved me goodbye. Nobody else gave me a hug in Europe. I had a overwhelming desire to return someday and give them a big cake.